The fabric for our ready-to-wear shirts is cut by hand. Once cut, the collar and cuffs are paired with a soft interlining and the upper and lower panels of the sleeve are joined. Then, the foreparts, the back, and the yoke are sewn together to create the body. The machine stitches are as beautiful as they are robust. There are approximately 30 stitches per inch.The collar is then stitched to the body, where it awaits the final passes by hand. Once the sleeve and cuff are joined, the latter is hand set on the armhole so that it follows the forward pitch of human arms; in Italian this is called “lavorazione a busto chiuso,” which is very similar to the same technique used in bespoke tailoring.
The final passages are performed entirely by the skillful hands of the craftsmen:
– The interior part of the collar (ribattitura del collo) is hand stitched to the body to provide a soft and pleasant feeling around the neck.
– The armhole (ribattitura del giro) is hand stitched to provide the right amount of ease where needed. The visible effects are the elegant dimples around the sleeve head and the overall visible round appearance.
– The bartack (il travetto) is hand embroidered at the end of the sleeve placket in order to strengthen it.
– The button hole (l’asola) is hand embroidered partly for the sake of beauty and partly to survive hundreds of fastenings.
– The button shank (il gambo) is handmade to increase its longevity and to make the fastening easier. The older artisans used to say that a properly attached button should look like a mushroom, with the cap well-spaced from the base.
– The front placket (il cannoncino) is blind hand stitched and closed with a bar tack near the fourth button to improve solidity.
– The mouche (la mosca) is the triangular reinforcement to strengthen the juncture between the front and the back of the shirt.
100% cotton oxford
4mm thick Australian mother of pearl buttons
L3 – long-wing button down collar
Made in Italy